While all of the many Chiang Mai University campuses are both spacious and sprawling, there is no parcel of land so small yet so significant as the few square metres on which the university’s spirit house sits.
Generations of students have come to the university’s spirit house; to pray, to make offerings, to beg and to bargain, all in hopes of graduating, of achieving dreams, of passing exams and of receiving spiritual aid and guidance to navigate the many challenges of life.
Chiang Mai University students call themselves ‘Baby Elephants’. Baby Elephants have always looked towards the university’s iconic shrine for their spiritual alma mater, fondly calling their revered guardian spirit, ‘Grandfather Elephant’.
When the university was founded in 1964 it sat on 580 rai of land, mostly wild, which had either been donated, bought or procured via eminent domain. Remarkably, the university also sits on the ancient city of Wiang Jed Lin, adding a layer of history to its already rich story. Even in those early days, as seen in the accompanying photograph, the spirit house was a significant spiritual landmark of the university.
Chiang Mai University area when it was first established
The first spirit house was erected on the 27th July 1964, a relatively modest structure perched atop a pole. While a far sight from today’s more grand spiritual abode, it was considered of utmost importance for the founders of the university to immediately find a home for any spirits which may have become displaced during the construction of the university, as per belief. As trees were cut, buildings assembled, land reallocated and workers set up shelters, it was imperative, in accordance with Thai religious and cultural traditions, that the spirits were appeased and welcomed into a new home of their own.
Ceremony of Spirit House of Chiang Mai University on the 27th July 1964
At the front of the university building (Current Dharma Pavilion)
Emeritus Professor Dr. Sumana Khamthong of the Faculty of Geography wrote about the erection of the spirit house, a task assigned to Emeritus Professor Dr. Buarat Khamthong, ex-president of the university, who was then deputy president, explaining,
“The task for the deputy president in this case was unusual. Especially when the ex-president of the university Colonel Phyasrivisarnvaja assigned him the task, going as far as to open a map and pin point the exact location for the spirit house. At the time, Dr. Buarat was being visited by a small group of lecturers from Chulalongkorn University’s Faculty of Science. In spite of all being scientists and having studied abroad, upon arrival they asked to play a game of ouiji board. “Let’s invite the rulers of Chiang Mai”, said Dr. Buarat when asked, and according to lore, the glass began to move and spell out the words, ‘I am here to thank Buarat and Sumana for finding me a home as I haven’t had one for a long time. I would also like some local food.’
A small, but not insignificant part of Dr. Buarat’s duties was also to give parcels of blessed grains of rice to all the faculties and dormitories of the university, following rumours of ghost sightings and fear amongst the students. The university at the time was partially forested and there were frequent stories of spirits. Once the deed was performed, all fears were allayed and the spiritual wellbeing of the university was assured.”
(far left) Emeritus Professor Dr. Buarat Khamthong
Acting Vice President and Dean of the Faculty of Science at the Ceremony of Spirit House
For the past 50 years there has rarely been a moment in any day when an aromatic waft of incense doesn’t greet anyone who walks past the Chiang Mai University spirit house. Offering food, drinks, flowers, incense and prayers, thousands of students over the past five decades have looked towards Grandfather Elephant for guidance, emotional and spiritual support. Grandfather Elephant is always at his busiest, however, at the start of the school year when students come to ask for blessings for their education and protection. The annual freshers’ week also sees students come to introduce themselves to Grandfather Elephant, asking for his blessings, akin to visiting a village elder out of respect.
Each time the university holds an important outdoor event, whether it is the annual celebration of the university’s founding, the kick-off of freshers’ week or any similar activities, the first order of business is to pay respect to the Grandfather Elephant at the spirit house. To date Grandfather Elephant has watched over his family well and no untoward incident has ever mired any of the university’s important ceremonies.
Dr. Somthop Pajornthid Educator, Professional Level
“Before an important outdoor event, should the clouds be dark in the skies, our students will go to see Grandfather Elephant and ask for him to hold off the rain,” explained Dr. Somthop Pajornthid, of Educator, Professional Level, at the Faculty of Medical Technology. “It has been a long-observed phenomenon that the rain always ceases. I don’t have an explanation, but this is a regular occurrence which I have had firsthand experience in. When you have faith, when you have belief in something intangible, just because it can’t be seen doesn’t mean that it doesn’t see us. First of all, our spirits must be pure. If you don’t worship them that is fine, just don’t disrespect them. It is like when you go to someone’s house, you always have to wai them out of respect. The same here, nearly every person who enters the Chiang Mai University gates put their hands up for a wai of respect towards Grandfather Elephant. It is normal for someone who doesn’t receive respect not to go out of their way to protect or help.”
The body and spirit are interconnected. When the body fails we have hospitals and doctors. However, what happens when the spirit is damaged or in need of succour? You can live in a luxurious 100 story apartment but where do you go when you are in need of emotional support? Sometimes it is important to hold on to something, and often that something is faith.”
Each year sees a number of religious ceremonies are performed, under the oversight of the committee for religious promotion, tasked with strengthening Lanna-Thai culture. Religious holidays are observed along with many auspicious occasions such as the Four Keepers of the World ceremony, a Lanna custom, and the Thai customs of worship of the spirit house every year on founding day. Student-led events such as the annual freshers’ walk up Doi Suthep, are organised by the Student Association. With faith, this tradition has seen through countless activities over the years.
Clinical Professor Niwes Nantachit, M.D., the university’s president
presiding over the four ascension ceremonies and an offering ceremony to pay respects to the spirit house at Chiang Mai University on the occasion of the founding day of Chiang Mai University
“Faith is a combination of belief and knowledge”: explained Dr. Somthop Pajornthid “If faith takes the lead then you can end up mired in superstition. On the other hand, if you focus too much knowledge then you may not feel the need to make merit. They need to be finely balanced.”
On the 19th April 2019, following a decision to re-landscape the area around the spirit house, it was temporarily moved to Sarn Pieng Ta to the front of the Dharma Pavilion. A Buddhist and Brahmin ceremony was conducted to ask permission from the spirits to move, with Clinical Professor Niwes Nantachid, MD, the university’s president presiding over the removal ceremony.
Auspicious elephants that are often brought to the spirit house
Anyone interested in paying their respects to the spirit house may do so by bringing flowers and incense. Should food or drinks be offered to the spirits, then they are asked to take them home again after the offering. Some people come simply to help clean up the spirit house. All these activities help build up both the knowledge and spiritual well-being of the university body.